
What does it really mean?.
At its most basic level,
Organic Wine is made from grapes that have been grown without the use of chemical fertilizers, pesticides, fungicides, or herbicides. While such vineyard practices are essential, the winemaking techniques should be organic as well; little or no manipulation of wines by reverse osmosis, excessive filtration, or flavor additives. Many organic winemakers also prefer wild yeasts for fermentation.
When a label says "organic," it means the wine has met certain standards that are set by a government agency. Different nations have their own certification criteria, so what defines organic in one country may not apply in another. Many wineries that are technically organic still choose not to be certified, often due to the added costs and bureaucracy of registering and maintaining their certification. Some certified organic wines are La Rocca Chardonnay [750 ml, $16.49], Cabernet [750 ml, $18.99], and Our Daily Red [750 ml, $10.99].
The use of added sulfites is debated heavily within the organic winemaking community. Many vintners favor their use, in extremely small quantities, to help stabilize wines, while others frown on them completely. In the United States, wines labeled "organic" cannot contain added sulfites. By this restriction, the vast majority of what we have referred to in the past as organic wines must now be referred to as "wines made from organic grapes" (or organically grown grapes), as they are allowed to contain up to 100 ppm of added sulfites. Such wines include Bonterra Cabernet [750 ml, $14.99] and Merlot [750 ml, $15.99].
The excessive attention given to the matter of whether sulfites have been added to wine (or not) serves to distract the public from much more important issues such as soil depletion and erosion, water pollution, loss of biodiversity, ecological impact, resistance to pests, chemical dependence, and product standardization. Although there are no set standards, wineries that take the ecology of the vineyard into account, and try to minimize chemical treatments and energy use, are called "sustainable." For products made using sustainable farming try Honig Sauvignon Blanc [750 ml, $15.99].
The practice of Biodynamics in Viticulture has become popular in recent years in several growing regions. A number of very high-end, high-profile commercial growers have converted recently to biodynamic practices, and there are currently more than 450 biodynamic wine producers world-wide. The principles and practices of biodynamics are based on the spiritual/practical philosophy of Rudolf Steiner (1861–1925), called anthroposophy, which combines ecological and spiritual ideas. As a practical method of farming, biodynamics embodies the ideal of ever-increasing ecological self-sufficiency, but includes certain mystical considerations.
Some grape growers who have adopted biodynamic methods claim to have achieved improvements in the health of their vineyards, specifically in the areas of biodiversity, soil fertility, crop nutrition, and pest, weed, and disease management. However, a long-term study comparing biodynamic methods with general organic farming methods in different vineyard blocks at a commercial vineyard in California found no differences in soil quality, nor in the yield per vine, clusters per vine, and cluster and berry weight.
In a blind tasting of 10 pairs of biodynamic and conventionally-made wines, conducted by Fortune and judged by seven wine experts including a Master of Wine and head sommeliers, nine of the biodynamic wines were judged superior to their conventional counterpart. The biodynamic wines were found to have better expressions of terroir, the way in which a wine can represent its specific place of origin in its aroma, flavor, and texture. If you would like to try biodynamic wines for yourself, pick up a bottle of Jean Bousquet Chardonnay [750 ml, $11.99] or any of the fine Grgich Hills products [Grgich Hills Estate Napa Cabernet Sauvignon, 750 ml, $72.99].
Natural Wine is wine made with as little chemical and technological intervention as possible, either in the way the grapes are grown or the way they are made into wine. The concept of 'natural wine' is extremely controversial, particularly in the English-speaking world. Many critics reject it as misleading since is no established certification body and the term has no legal status. Winemakers who describe themselves as 'natural' often differ in what they consider to be an acceptable level of intervention.
Most definitions of natural wine include some or all of the following:
Hand-picked, organically or biodynamically grown grapes
Low-yielding vineyards.
No added sugars, no foreign yeasts
No fining or filtration
No adjustments for acidity
No other additives for mouth-feel, color, etc.
No micro-oxygenation or reverse osmosis
Little or no added sulphite
Among the 'natural' wines we sell are Cade Cabernet [750 ml, $69.99] and Sauvignon Blanc [750 ml, $32.99].